A Lenten beer conversation with a fulltime monk

Brother Francis visiting Belgium. Courtesy photo

A couple of years ago, I did a little research into the Lenten practice of monks of the 17th Century. Thirsty as I am, I focused on the origin story of the doppelbock style of beer. Legend has it that monks from Munich developed the beer for more nutrition during their liquid-only fasts during Lent. Was that even possible? Yes. I learned that it was.

As I prepared for the project, during my fast and in subsequent months, I’ve had interactions with a number of clergy, including a pair of monks. Both found my project interesting and both confirmed that this practice no longer takes place. “We don’t do without; we do with less,” said Brother Thomas of Conception Abbey in Northwest Missouri.

But, with more specifics, what’s it like today for a fulltime monk? For answers, I turned to Brother Francis Davoren of Monastero San Benedetto in Italy. Raised in Dallas, Texas and possessing an interest and affection for craft beer, Brother Francis is the Head Brewmonk of Birra Nursia, which produces a pair of beers: a light and buoyant “blond” beer and a deep and rich “extra.”

Beautifully, any profits derived from the sale of these beers is “used to support the work of prayer and witness of God, which is the monk’s duty. Naturally this includes giving a warm welcome pilgrims and poor, who are assured of finding hospitality at the monk’s door, as well as contributions to the cultural and spiritual growth of the town.” Just like the good, old days.

Without further delay, let’s ask Brother Francis a few questions:

BREWVANA: What did you think of my Lenten doppelbock fast?

BR. FRANCIS: I heard about your Lenten adventure and thought it was pretty cool sounding. Although when I thought about it, I wondered if I would be sick of beer by the end of Lent if I did that. I’ve also been interested in the relationships between beer and monks. Chimay Red was what “converted” me to craft beer, and of course having an interest in being a monk helped as well.

BREWVANA: Where do your beer preferences lie?

BR. FRANCIS: I used to love dopplebocks because I really didn’t like hops too much. But then about six years ago I think I had the infamous “lupulin threshold shift” and started going for hoppier and hoppier beers. Still my favorite style is the Russian Imperial Stout (oh how I wish I could get Old Rasputin over here!), but dopplebocks, for a while at least, seemed too malty. I haven’t had one in awhile though, so I wonder what I’d think of it now. Seems like my beer tastes have changed quite a bit over the years. I’m no beer-tasting expert by any means, but I guess just lots of practice over the years has helped me understand things better.

BREWVANA: You’re the “Head Brewmonk” at Birra Nursia. Tell us about your brewing background:

BR. FRANCIS: I am the new kid on the block regarding brewing and I feel like a total noob. My beer background: I didn’t start drinking beer until I was 21 … seriously (I’m 40 now)! Growing up in the South, all you saw was the usual BMC’s, and my family really wasn’t into alcohol. There was the occasional wine for special occasions, but that was about it. In college I was introduced to Guinness, which was tolerable, and gave me a way to have something if friends wanted to go out drinking. One night I went to a pub that had a wall of taps and tons of beers in the bottle. I got my usual Guinness and something about it was really off. So I grabbed the beer menu and noticed “Trappist” beers. That made me curious since I was looking at monastic life. I ordered a Chimay Red and it was like the proverbial scales fell from my eyes. Tasty beer really did exist! After that, there was no looking back. I started trying everything. Eventually my best friend got into homebrewing. I would sometimes help him, but never really paid attention to the process … just the results.

BREWVANA: How did you become Head Brewmonk at the monastery?

BR. FRANCIS: Eventually I came to the monastery, and the idea of a brewery came up. Given my beer (tasting) background, I took a hearty interest in it. I got permission to start homebrewing, although I had to do it on my free time, and in a monastery, there isn’t a lot of that. So I began doing research on brewing and dabbled in homebrewing while the brewery project moved along. By the time we actually got the brewery up, I had a whopping seven homebrews under my belt: five kit beers and two extract batches. So … my first all-grain … was on our real brewing system. Thankfully the brewmaster who has taught me is the Belgian brewer Marc Knops. Great teacher, brewmaster, and friend. I owe all my brewing accomplishments to him.

Brother Francis in the Birra Nursia brewhouse. Courtesy photo

BREWVANA: What’s been the reception to your beers?

BR. FRANCIS: Given that there is only one other monastery in Italy that brews beer (Cascinazza), we are certainly facing a challenge. But so far Italians have been very receptive to our beer. Thankfully they have a very artisanal and local mentality here.

BREWVANA: What does mealtime look like at the monastery? And what about Lent, specifically?

BR. FRANCIS: We try to follow the monastic fast described by Saint Benedict in his rule. So, depending on the time of the year, we have different meal schedules.”

Normally we have the following:

From Easter to Pentecost we have a normal meal schedule: breakfast in the morning, lunch around 1 p.m., and dinner around 6:30 p.m.

From Pentecost to Sept. 14, we have the above schedule on all days but Wednesday and Friday. On those days we have breakfast in the morning, lunch around 3 p.m., and no dinner.

From Sept. 14 until Lent, we have the same fasting schedule as above: breakfast in the morning, and lunch around 3 p.m., no dinner. Of course we do go back to the Easter schedule for the time from Christmas to Epiphany.

Then from Lent until Easter, we have breakfast in the morning, then our only meal is at 5:30 p.m.

On any 1st or 2nd class feast, we follow the Easter to Pentecost schedule for the day no matter what time of the year it is.

Sundays are always the same too: breakfast in the morning, lunch around 1:30 p.m., and dinner around 6:30 p.m.

Also, breakfast is optional on all days. We also only eat meat on Christmas, Holy Thursday, Easter and Thanksgiving.

Typically monasteries take on a more penitential spirit during Lent, but given the nature of Benedictine monasticism, each house will have its own customs. Trappists and Cistercians have a bit more uniform organization, whereas Benedictines are grouped by different “confederations” usually based along the lines of motherhouses and daughterhouses, or geographical regions or language.

BREWVANA: Aside from the scaled back diet, are there other Lenten practices that you keep?

BR. FRANCIS: As for our other Lenten practices, each monk selects one penance under each of the categories of prayer, fasting and almsgiving, and submits that to superior for approval just like in the Rule of Saint Benedict. So, for example, a monk could choose to say a rosary a day, not add sugar to his coffee during Lent, and clean the common bathrooms once a week on his own. We also have to a Lenten book to read, a choice we make and submit to the superior for approval.

BREWVANA: What about beer in your everyday life?

BR. FRANCIS: Regarding beer in our monastery, we typically only have it at dinner on 1st or 2nd class feasts. At lunch and dinner any time we have table wine, since we’re in Italy. I personally don’t find it that high quality, so we might get wine at meals, but it is more of a penance for me to drink it. LOL. We do get a nicer wine on feast days though.

BREWVANA: That’s today. What do you know of “yesteryear?”

BR. FRANCIS: In the early monastic life (ie Egyptian desert fathers of the 3rd and 4th centuries), they never had breakfast so a “monastic fast” was not eating until None (the 9th hour of the day) which is around 3 p.m. On penitential days, this fast was extended to sundown. This is why Saint Benedict wrote his rule as he did. He was greatly influenced by the writings of Saint John Cassian, who himself spent time in the Egyptian desert learning about the monastic life there. He then “imported” it the Western Roman Empire where it had a great influence on western monasticism.

BREWVANA: Tell us about the history of Monastero San Benedetto.

BR. FRANCIS: As for 17th century monastic practices, we don’t really have anything since our community has only been here since 2000. We “refounded” the monastery here at the birthplace of Saint Benedict in 2000. There had been a monastery here for centuries but once Napoleon suppressed the religious orders in Italy and kicked out the Benedictines from the monastery here, there had not been monks here for almost 200 years.

___

Big thanks to Brother Francis for taking the time to correspond with me over the course of the last few weeks/months.

 

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Beer Fast: two years of hindsight

First off, let me say that I don’t sanction The Beer Diet and wouldn’t encourage anyone to embark on a Beer Fast as I did during the Lent of 2011. I was successful and I learned a lot, but wouldn’t recommend the practice.

Two years’ worth of hindsight really confirms this view for me. And so with Ash Wednesday on the horizon (Feb. 13), I thought I’d follow up with my recent observations.

Betsy McCall, Art Monastery Project

Last year, I caught wind of three separate beer fasts. There was writer Joe Konrath’s 30-Day Beer Diet, the fellows from Primo’s Craft Beer in El Paso, Texas, and a trio of “art monks” from the Art Monastery Project in Italy.

Their purposes were different. Konrath apparently set out to lose weight, be amusing and cash in on a book. The Primo’s Craft Beer guys found the monk story interesting and tested it to count down to the Superbowl. And the Art Monastery people found some inspiration in my story and set out to explore, as they do in their daily existence, the connection between art and a monastic existence. The role of beer in that mix seemed all the more intriguing, I’d say.

Konrath posted funny snippets of his experience on a blog. He passed a kidney stone on Day 16, wrote nearly daily until four-day lapses between Days 20 and 26, and Days 26 and 30. Then he went off the air with no follow up that I’m aware of.

Though his comrade was sidelined by the flu, Paul Fiero of Primo’s found success drinking three Weihenstephaner’s Korbinians per day for two weeks. “It ended up being one of the most challenging things I’ve ever done in my life but at the same time one of the most insightful,” said Paul. “I didn’t realize how much our society revolves around food until your deprived of it. The self-control to abstain from food also took plenty of determination and resolve.”

Since they contacted me for advice in the beginning, I’ve had the most interaction and insight into the project taken on by Charles, Molly and Betsy of the Art Monastery Project. My initial advice, as it was for Konrath, was to not do it. However, because people will make their own decisions, I gave them practical tips as well: drink lots of water, drink unfiltered beer, and toss in a few wheat beers for added protein.

Living it

Here’s what happened. Molly had to bail out after Day 1, noting that it quickly became apparent to her that mixing beer, a fast and the medications she was on weren’t a good idea. Charles lasted about a week. I think he’d have been more successful if he weren’t trying to quit smoking at the same time. The migraines and vomiting he encountered were too much to bear, and he made a wise decision in calling it quits. Where that vomiting came from, I don’t know, and I’ll admit to being surprised.

Betsy McCall

That left Betsy. She completed the planned two-week fast, but it didn’t seem nearly as pleasant as the 46 days I pushed through. Let’s let her talk:

“I tried to get doppelbocks but we live out in the Italian countryside, and I couldn’t find too many,” she said. “I was drinking four beers per day at the beginning, all unfiltered, including one hefeweizen per day. They were high quality beers that normally I love. I remember the first day I couldn’t finish my fourth beer. I was sitting in bed gazing at this half-full pint of Chimay. I wanted to cry over the horror of letting such a gorgeous beer go un-drunk.”

What? It’s hard to finish one’s fourth beer in a day? Yes. I can relate to that. On the first couple of days of my original fast, I can say that after a day of no food and a persistent headache, I wasn’t excited about those last few swallows either.

“Right around the same time that Charles started getting violently ill, I couldn’t quite get all my beers down,” said Betsy. “So slowly I was consuming less and less until one day I had only water. Then Charles got me some Guinness and that was my saving grace. The last few days of the fast I drank Guinness and water (2 or 3 bottles/day).”

She made it to the end successfully, meditating and producing a lot of art (pictured above and below) in the process. But there were consequences.

Betsy McCall, Art Monastery Project

“Since the fast, which ended in May, the very smell of beer turns my stomach,” she said. “Same thing with wine. Whiskey smells good to me and tastes good, but I have stomach pains if I actually drink it. So I’ve been dry since May.”

Whoa! That’s a sobering statement. When I was fasting, I certainly became sick of drinking the same beer day after day without any brand of variety. But at no point did I ever feel repulsed by beer. Thank goodness—I’d have lost my identity and would have switched from beer blogging to knitting blogging. Betsy may not be a beer judge, beer blogger or semi-professional beer drinker like so many of us, but she would have shied away from the project if she’d known the beer-consequences (me too):

“I never would have done the fast had I known that it would take beer away from me,” she said. “That said, being sober has been a fascinating experience. I’ve watched all my social pulls and pushes and how that’s connected to alcohol and to beer specifically. I don’t know when (if?) I’ll be able to drink again, but these six months have been really useful.”

Would Paul do it again? “At the end of the journey I learned a lot about myself, society, and how the way we go about living our lives is dependent upon a number of things we take for granted. I learned to appreciate the fact that I can go to McDonald’s if I’m hungry and get a burger for $1 when I’m hungry,” he said. “Even though I feel like I got plenty out of the experience, I don’t think I would do it again, at least in the near future.”

Fast lane

People have said, “Oh, you should write a book called The Beer Diet and make a million dollars!” But I wouldn’t cash in on something like that. One, there are better ways to lose weight; two, I probably wouldn’t make a million dollars even on a lame gimmick; and three, there’s too much risk involved. I believe that more now than the day I finished my fast.

The examples I’ve given today have been proof of that.

But.

But fasting is an amazing practice and I think folks should do research on, consult their doctors about and try.

Some do it for spiritual reasons, it can be used as a weight loss tool, it’s a great method for detoxing the body and it can serve as a nutritional kickstart.

When I did my beer fast, I packed on 20 extra pounds because of my slight frame. I lost 25 pounds and ended up with only a five-pound deficit. If I had it to do over, I wouldn’t add any weight. Why? My wife lost only five pounds on a 15-day juice fast. An acquaintance lost only 20 pounds on a 92-day juice fast. I think your body’s intuitive and will settle where it needs to be if you feed it right. The juice fast is an amazing way to give your body a break from the hard work of digesting food, while packing nutrients straight into the body.

During the first two or three days of my beer fast, I suffered a headache and hunger pangs. Why? Because I was detoxing from all the bacon, ice cream and doughnuts I’d been consuming to gain weight. How do I know this? Because a few months back, my wife and I embarked on a seven-day juice fast.

For this trip, I did nothing to gain weight. I simply walked into it in good health (My normal diet includes lots of vegetables and very little processed food. We cook almost everything we consume. Further, I do zero fast food, no soda and I don’t drink much in the way of caffeinated coffee (I’m not noble on that one; it just doesn’t agree with Michelle’s system, and we don’t always keep two kinds of coffee on hand). Since I wasn’t detoxing from anything bad, I didn’t feel bad. At no point during that seven-day juice fast did I feel tired, hungry or head-achy. I felt like a champion, start to finish.

Pretty amazing.

When I did the Diary of a Part-Time Monk project back in 2011, I figured my success could be attributed to my natural metabolism, lack of impulsivity and stubborn nature. However, I can guarantee that if I’d done the fast during Lent of 2012, I would not have been successful. In my neck of the woods, the winter of 2011-12 had been very dry. I dry out easily and go through lots of lip balm and dandruff shampoo in the winter months. Add to that the fact that the lousy heating system in my office required me to sit with a space heater (giant toaster) under my desk and caused me to consume about 10 cups of coffee on an empty stomach every day, and you had a fellow pouring Visine into his eyes, guzzling water and bathing in lotion. My ulcer kicked up and I found myself in the doctor’s office in need of stomach repair and an IV near the end of February.

Yes, things would have turned out much differently had the stars been aligned differently.

It can be done. But there must be some reason why monks don’t continue the practice to this day. Given the quality of their water at the time and the amount that I pounded during my time, the monks of yore must have faired much more poorly in even the best of circumstances when they fasted in the 17th Century and earlier. I’m convinced that their 40-day fasts would have been much more difficult than mine was.

Managing the alcohol is pointless on multiple fronts, and as Konrath demonstrated, physical unknowns may exist (at some point he admitted to having had kidney stone problems in the past—so maybe you have a problem that is know but that you choose to ignore). Risking one’s health just doesn’t make sense, in my view (for my part, I was monitored by a doctor before, during and after my research project).

Another beer fast? No, thanks.

But I find fasting on juice to be fascinating. Want to challenge yourself and tune up physically, mentally and spiritually? Do juice, not beer.

_____

This year’s incarnation of Illuminator Doppelbock goes on tap at Rock Bottom-West Des Moines on Feb. 12. Get some.

To purchase my book, Diary of a Part-Time Monk and learn more about fasting, doppelbock and the relationship between beer and the church, click here.

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BrrrFest in 3,000 words

Organized by Backpocket Brewing Company and the City of Coralville, Iowa, the second annual BrrrFest celebrated winter beer in Coralville on Jan. 26. This was a fun festival last year when I attended and though I wasn’t able to go this year to file a report, Mike Jenn from Iowa City-based JennPix was gracious enough to extend the opportunity for his photos to take the place of my babbling.

Here are 3,000 of Mike’s words:

To view Mike’s complete BrrrFest album, click here.

For a Press-Citizen write-up on the fest, click here.

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Derek’s first time

I was Derek’s Christmas present. His lovely and thoughtful girlfriend bought me (and my brother-in-law Kyle) at a good price. This weekend, he cashed in his gift certificate, and I stopped by to help him brew his first batch of milk stout.

Perhaps you have a loved one (or self) who is interested in brewing. Homebrewers, if you know one, love to spread the cheer and are almost always happy to prod a young brewer into a fun new hobby. Don’t hesitate to buy a Homebrewer Gift Certificate for your next gift idea. It’s fun for the giver, receiver and gift-person.

After a fun day of malt, hops, yeast and water–and a few beers–Derek, above left, is now among the swelling ranks of homebrewers. Lift one in his name!

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I went to the Library

I finally got around to stopping by the University Library Cafe, a compact little bar in the Drake neighborhood of Des Moines, owned by the same good folks that brought you El Bait Shop, The Royal Mile, The Red Monk and many other of Des Moines’ best bars.

The Library has 2o solid taps and PBR, plus 68 bottles. If you’re thirsty and have some “reading” or “studying” to do, there are many capable libations to accompany you–and they’re poured by friendly staff. It doesn’t look like much from the exterior, but it’s certainly worth your time.

I stopped by for a short visit before an appointment and it wasn’t long before this snug little hotspot was packed. While the Library has about 80 taps too few for some people to consider it a legit taproom, in my opinion, the 20-tap style is a good way to go. If a publican can’t offer a wide selection of beer options with that number of lines running then they simply aren’t trying hard enough. The Library accomplishes this task and proves that bigger isn’t necessarily better.

They serve food, but I can’t speak to that at present. The sign out front boasts that they were voted as having Des Moines’ best nachos, so there’s always that to look forward to, and a menu full of traditional bar fare.

Check ‘em out: 3506 University Avenue in Des Moines

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In the tank: Illuminator 3

 

Over the weekend, I took a field trip to Rock Bottom Restaurant and Brewery in West Des Moines to join Senior Brewer Eric Sorensen in brewing my now annual contribution to the Lenten beer scene: Illuminator Doppelbock.

While the first two iterations of the beer weighed in at 6.68 abv to present “a bold, unfiltered monk’s Lenten session beer,” this year’s offering will be bigger and more in line with our modern-day idea of doppelbock. Packed with Munich and Vienna malts, as well as melanoidin, rye and a touch of Carafa, the OG on this year’s Illuminator hit 24.1 Plato (so take the word session out of that description).

The beer will be released on Fat Tuesday (Feb. 12) at Rock Bottom’s annual crawfish boil, and the dinner will feature my own doppelwort ice cream for dessert. For reservations, call (515) 267-8900.

Rock Bottom-West Des Moines is located at 4508 University Avenue.

 

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Schedule change for Mars Cafe signing

As some of you know, a recent blizzard forced us to postpone the book signing I had scheduled at Mars Cafe in Des Moines on Dec. 19.

We have rescheduled the signing for Jan. 23 at 6:30 p.m. Since local beer is a good thing, Mark and the crew at Mars Cafe will be offering specials on Peace Tree beers, so we all have that to look forward to as well.

Mention this post for a free high five, and thanks for your patience.

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FAQs that I just made up about Illuminator

In the interest of answering all your burning questions about Rock Bottom’s next incarnation of my Illuminator Doppelbock, I sat down with myself for a self-interview. While not all of these questions are asked of me frequently, some of them actually have been asked. So here you go:

Q: Are you and Eric brewing Illuminator again this year?

A: Yes.

Q: My gosh, how many years has it been now?

A: This will be the third year.

Q: Will you use the same recipe?

A: No. Last year we lowered the mash temperature to gain more fermentability, and made slight grainbill adjustments (to adjust the color without using Sinimar, for example). This year, we’re making a bigger beer, more in line with the modern day expectation for the style.

Q: How big?

A: Oh, you know, like around 8.5% abv or so.

Q: How small was it before?

A: It was about 6.68% abv.

Q: Why was it so small? You call that a doppelbock?

A: Yes, we call it a doppelbock. We sized it to fit in with the Diary of a Part-Time Monk project. Research found that the monks may have been consuming a “doppelbock” that was below sub-six in alcohol content (and quite sweet).

Q: Diary of a Part-Time Monk? What project are you talking about?

A: I tested the origin story of doppelbock by fasting like monks are said to have done in the 17th Century. I drank nothing but this beer and water for 46 days. All the details are in the book.

Q: Holy cow! Forty-six days! Were you drunk all the time?

A: No. I spaced the beers out so I could function. And the beer wasn’t huge, so that helped.

Q: So now you just want to make a regular doppelbock?

A: Yeah.

Q: Cool.

A: Thanks.

Q: Did this beer win any awards?

A: It won a silver at the Festival of Wood and Barrel Aged Beers in 2011.

Q: No luck this year, huh?

A: We didn’t barrel-age it the second time.

Q: Why not?

A: Our brew day and barrel inventory didn’t line up.

Q: You putting some in a barrel this year?

A: Yes.

Q: Why?

A: Because it will taste really cool, and Eric has a barrel lined up.

Q: What kind of barrel?

A: Last time was a Templeton Rye barrel, and this time we’re using a Mississippi River Distilling Cody Road Bourbon Barrel.

Q: When you brewing it?

A: December 29.

Q: When will it be released?

A: At Rock Bottom-DSM’s annual Fat Tuesday Crawfish Boil on Feb. 12?

Q: Wow! Lent comes early this year, doesn’t it?

A: Seems so to me.

Q: How much you making?

A: I’m guessing about eight barrels.

Q: Will Illuminator be available in bottles?

A: No.

Q: Can I get the recipe?

A: Click here.

Q: Do you make a lot of money off this deal?

A: No, it’s just cool to have a brewery make one of my recipes, though they did score me passes to GABF this year.

Q: Is this an annual thing, then?

A: It’s starting to look like it.

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Iowa Beer Insider hits airwaves Dec. 6

There’s always something flying under the radar over here at Brewvana HQ, and the latest development is a foray into broadcasting. Iowa Beer Insider, hosted by yours truly, debuts on 91.9 KSOI-FM (for those lucky folks in the Southern Iowa listening area) on Dec. 6 at 5:15 p.m.

Working to strengthen localism, education, diversity, entertainment and public participation in community, KSOI is a fully powered community radio station dedicated to serving Southern Iowa, playing every genre of music from Alabama and Taylor Swift to Lady Gaga and Frank Sinatra.

And it has a beer show.

My short, weekly Iowa Beer Insider segments will air on Thursdays (and repeat on Fridays and Saturdays) at 5:15 p.m. Look for a insight into the blossoming Iowa craft beer scene, with brewer interviews, beer reviews, event and beer release info, as well as me babbling variously about what’s happening in the Iowa beer market.

It should be fun.

If you’re outside the KSOI listening area, and tears are welling up because you really want to know what Dave Coy, Travis Scheidecker or Eric Sorensen are up to, fear not. We’re working on curating the audio files on a page here on brewvana.

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Book signing at Mars Cafe

Here’s a great idea for you:

Head on over to Mars Cafe (2318 University Avenue, Des Moines) on Wednesday, Dec. 19. Using the team approach to good, clean fun, Mars Cafe is the host venue for a book signing put together with the help of John Heitzman of The Book Store, an indy bookseller located at 606 Locust Street in Des Moines.

I’ll be there to talk about and sign copies of Diary of a Part-Time Monk. Perhaps you hadn’t given it much thought, but, despite the shameless self-promotion involved in this very sentence, buying this book really is a good holiday gift idea.

I’m looking forward to being there, as it involves three of my favorite interests: books, beer and coffee. We’ll kick things off at 6:30 p.m. I hope to see you there!

PS: Mention this post for a free high five.

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